The Search for the True Punjabi Tadka
There's
a time in everyone's life when the search for something Punjabi takes on
romantic dimensions. Looking for a Punjabi boy, the Punjabi munda, the
quintessential stud, is a phase many girls go through, even if they don't admit
it. The Punjabi kudi has been the stuff male dreams are made of for centuries.
Stories about the characteristics of the gritty Punjabi have been
doing the round for eons. They've been stamped as the most strapping, handsome
sorts especially in their Sardar avataar. Known as gentlemen to the core
they've been the mainstays of history. And it is said that it is all because of
the land they live in, the water they drink...the water of the five rivers from
where they got their name Punjab.
Not surprising therefore is the unique flavor of the cuisine of
Punjab that has become a worldwide phenomenon. And I do believe that the search
for the perfect or typical Punjabi Meal is the only sign that proves that
you've graduated from lusting the Punjabi (male or female) to loving the
Punjabi (the taste, the flavor, the signature wholesomeness).
Though everyone goes through this transition at some stage or the
other, foodies like us graduate to the ‘cuisine’ stage very early in our life.
Almost as if the eyes look at the chicken leg instead of the chick’s legs;-)
I have
been fortunate in my life to have travelled across the length and breadth of
the country, even a major portion of the world itself, and have sampled Punjabi
Fare almost everywhere. The bonus in my life is that at different times I’ve
had good Punjabi friends who spared no trouble to ensure that I tasted good old
Punjabi Home Cooked food.
But the
desire to satisfy the craving for authentic Punjabi food has cropped up too
often and I am forever on the lookout for places that serve good Panju stuff.
In all
fairness I must admit that while the old Punjabi Dhabas were class acts of
their times, today’s hybrid ones are too localized for my liking. It’s like
eating Biryani with Avakaya (Pickle) instead of Mirchi ka Saalan.
And the
worst thing that could have happened is that the rustic Dhaba setting became a
five star inspiration for hotels and outlets that translated ambience into
imposing trucks, and dominant themes into loud balle balle music.
I found
places that cooked their Chicken the right way. Some where the rotis were true
to Punjab. And even some that strived to match the wholesomeness of the standard
‘big boy’ lassi da Punjab.
I also
rued the fact that many places had substituted whole wheat with Maida (which I
think is sacrilege). Also I’ve been known to be perennially pointing out that
the color of Punjab is not the artificial red that you paint on half cooked
chicken, but is a tone that tickles your appetite and satiates your palate in a
way no other food does.
And the
secret to getting it right almost always starts off with the right ingredients.
I mean, it is but natural that if you want to serve Desi Punjabi you have to
source Punjabi.
So when
I was told that the Gaajar had been specially flown in from the North I was
happy. The deeper red or even blacker Carrot makes all the difference, whether
it is a Gaajar ka Halwa or even a Kaali Gaajar ki Kanji.
Ok, now
I have a confession to make. Over the years I have transformed into more of a
Starters Man than a Main Course one. So I was looking forward eagerly to the
menu on offer.
I was
after all, at Punjab Grill, at the invitation of my good friend Sankalp and was
in the presence of the young and vivacious owner/partner Bhargavi.
The
first starter served was a googly (and No, that is not a pun to acknowledge the
presence of dear Neidhi Kumar the ex-Googler). It was something called Mutton
Tawa Tikke. The way this dish had been made was very reminiscent of the Hyderabadi
Patthar ka Gosht. And I was reminded that good food is a destination many
people reach using different routes.
The
Vegetarian on offer was Tikki Choley. And that was a hearty one. The tikkis
were a mashed potato extrapolation and the choley spread on top were soft
cooked into masala delicacy.
Two
dishes that fascinated me visually were the Atta Chicken and the Karela Kheema.
The Atta Chicken was a class act. Marinated chicken wrapped in muslin, covered
with a generous dollop of wheat dough and baked. The dough had to be cut open
to give us a taste of the amazingly well cooked chicken and it was a taste so
unique that it had me wondering how this had not perchanced on me during my
travels.
The
Karela Kheema was less exciting but tasted as good. The bitterness of the gourd
had been subdued and the texture of the minced meat was filling.
I must
tell you about the Butter Naans we had. Soft, hot, just the right texture and
the butter was not overwhelming.
All in
all, a nice experience. What I particularly liked that all the memories of
Punjab were being triggered off by the food. And food alone. Not the décor. Not
the music. And definitely not the waiters…oh how I hate those waiters who don
turbans and speak with the swag in an attempt to make the environment authentic
Punjab…and fail miserably.
The
Dessert section was bit of a downer though. The Fruit Cream tasted too much
like the Fruit Salad that we regularly have at the Fruit Vendors in Hyderabad.
And the Gud ka Halwa was too close to Kerala for my liking. But I guess the
toning down of the sugar heaviness was a conscious attempt.
Would I
go to Punjab Grill again? Most definitely yes. I like the fact that it is
Punjabi in taste alone. And I am not forcefed a dose of bhangra music, rustic
cot/chairs and the smell of diesel from the trucks or the highways, whichever
is nearer.
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