It requires you to be on the right side of insanity to wake up early in the morning and drive to the old city so as to reach the famous Govind Bandi by 6 am. Especially when you have been advised by foodie friends that he normally opens for business at 6.30 and gets into the swing only after 7 or so.

But the possibility of an easier drive was too tempting and my friend Bhaskar and I were at the bandi by 6.10 am. And found that we were lucky enough not just to be Govind’s ‘bonee’ customers (first customers of the day) but we also got to see a side of the business not many others have been privy to.

It’s the street. It’s a bandi. It’s in the old city. But does that mean cleanliness can be given a go by? Obviously Govind doesn’t think so. The way he got the early morning Municipal Squad to clean up his surroundings gave us an inkling as to what kind of man he was. He was cheerful and a charmer.

The moment the surroundings were clean he went about cleaning up his work area and then stocking up for the cooking marathon that awaited him. As onions and tomatoes were sliced and kothmeer chopped, they were put into their place. Butter packets were pulled out of their 500gm homes and diced into 50gm cubes. The stone slab that served as a pan was sizzled and wiped a few times. The chutney was stirred. The powder was shaken up.

Location : https://maps.google.co.in/maps?q=Govind+Ki+Bandi,+Char+Kaman,+Ghansi+Bazaar,+Hyderabad,+Andhra+Pradesh&hl=en&sll=17.408909,78.465759&sspn=0.355114,0.441513&oq=govind&hq=Govind+Ki+Bandi,&hnear=Char+Kaman,+Ghansi+Bazaar,+Hyderabad,+Andhra+Pradesh&t=m&z=16

(Photograph Courtesy: Sanjay Borra – Hyderabad Street Phtography)

During this ritual, some of the regular customers began to arrive. One on his way to Vijayawada in a Duster ostensibly to collect an outstanding of 25 lakhs. Another who was surely feeding an army because his was a take away order of 50 Dosas, 50 Idlis and 50 Vadas. And yet another who just came, ordered something, ate it, went to the cash box, deposited a hundred rupee in it and took some change and dashed off. But whoever it was, he got the full brunt of Govind’s smile…his natural charm and his early morning brand of cheer.

Much has been written about the uniquely rich taste of Govind’s preparations so I shall restrict my description of his masala idlis and dosas to a simple word…delicious.

The crisp of the dosas was like none other, and the masala inside (some integral to the dosa, some in suspended animation) was out of this world. The chutney which looked thinner at first glance and seemed to have more water than necessary actually turned out to be one with the appropriate texture.

As Govind himself took a tea break we were tempted, but resisted temptation in favor of a good South Indian Coffee at Kamat on our way back. And we were home by 8 am or so.

People say the best thing about an early morning is the sunrise. A picturesque dawn can be inspiring is what they say. I have been there and heard all the early morning bird sounds and the songs of fragrance but today I saw the impact of an early morning smile. It radiates positivity. It generates energy. And makes you feel like making the world sing with you.

Good Morning Hyderabad!!!